In-Home Loose Lead Training Without Prong Collars After NSW Crackdown

NSW’s proposed crackdown on prong collars is not just a legal change. It is a clear push toward welfare based training. The good news is that loose lead walking is very teachable without pain. Start inside, reward the position you want, stop the moment the lead tightens, and build difficulty in small steps. With the right harness and a consistent plan, most dogs improve quickly and stay safer and calmer on walks.

NSW has announced proposed animal welfare reforms that include banning painful prong collars. If your dog pulls, you still have options that work without pain, and you can start most of the dog training at home. This guide shows you how to build loose lead skills indoors first, then carry them to the driveway and street using positive reinforcement, clear rules, and equipment that gives you control without causing harm.

Key Takeaways

Treat the NSW prong collar ban as a real shift and start transitioning now.
Loose lead walking is a taught skill, not something you “correct” out of a dog.
The right setup is usually a well fitted harness and a standard lead, not a harsher collar.
Success comes from stopping pulling rehearsal, rewarding the position you want, and resetting the moment the lead goes tight.
If your dog lunges or reacts, distance and a structured plan matter more than strength.

What The NSW Crackdown Means For Dog Owners

On 18 January 2026, the NSW Government announced proposed changes to animal welfare laws that include banning the use of painful prong collars. Reporting on the same announcement states the reforms are expected to be introduced to NSW Parliament in the first half of 2026, with penalties discussed in line with other animal cruelty offences.

What you should do now:

Assume prong collars are on the way out in NSW.
Swap to welfare friendly equipment and training before rules tighten and enforcement increases.
Focus on skills, not tools. A different collar does not teach loose lead walking.

Why Prong Collars Are Being Targeted

Prong collars are designed to apply pressure and pain through metal points when a dog pulls. Welfare bodies and veterinary guidance consistently warn that pain based tools can cause physical injury and stress, and they do not teach the dog what to do instead.

A practical point many owners miss: even if a prong collar reduces pulling in the moment, it often does it by suppression. That can look like “better behaviour” while the dog’s stress rises. In some dogs, that stress shows up later as avoidance, shutdown, or reactivity.

NSW Friendly Equipment Alternatives

You do not need to “replace” a prong collar with another harsh tool. You need a setup that stops choking or stabbing pressure and gives you leverage while you teach the dog where to be.

Use the table to pick a starting point based on your dog and your situation.

Option	Best For	What It Does Well	What To Watch
Flat collar (ID collar)	Calm dogs that do not pull hard	Simple, low fuss	Not ideal if your dog surges, can strain the neck
Back clip harness	Dogs that pull mildly	Comfortable, avoids neck pressure	Can make pulling easier for strong pullers
Front clip harness	Most pullers, most owners	Reduces leverage for pulling, supports training	Fit matters, avoid rubbing at shoulders
Y harness (well fitted)	Comfort and free shoulder movement	Good everyday harness style	Choose a model with good adjustment, avoid restricting the shoulder
Head halter	Strong dogs with safety risks	Gives head control, useful short term	Must be conditioned slowly, misuse can cause discomfort
Double ended lead (two clip lead)	Harness control and stability	Helps reduce twisting and gives steadier handling	Still requires training, not a quick fix
Standard lead (about 1.8 m)	Everyone	Clear handling, consistent feedback	Avoid retractable leads during training

If your dog is powerful or you feel unsafe, start with a front clip harness and a standard lead, then add a double ended lead if needed.

In-Home Foundations Before You Go Outside

Loose lead walking fails outside when the dog has never learned the rules inside. Indoors is where you can teach the dog that staying near you pays, and pulling never gets them closer to what they want.

Set up your home practice like this:

Train in a low distraction area first, like a hallway or living room.
Use small, high value treats that your dog can eat fast.
Keep sessions short so the dog stays engaged.

Your success rule is simple: the lead stays slack. Slack is permission to move forward. Tight lead pauses everything.

Step By Step In-Home Loose Lead Plan

This is a short plan you can repeat daily. It is designed for real owners, not perfect conditions.

Put the harness and lead on and stand still. Wait for your dog to look at you. Reward.
Take 1 step. If the lead stays slack, reward near your leg.
Take 2 to 3 steps. Reward again while the lead is slack.
If the lead tightens, stop. Do not yank. Do not talk your dog through it. Just stop.
The moment your dog turns back or steps toward you and slack appears, reward.
Add a simple cue like “with me” only after the dog is already doing it.
Practise turns. Turn left and right and reward your dog for following without tightening the lead.
End after a few minutes. Stop while you are winning.

This teaches your dog one clear idea: staying close keeps the walk moving and earns rewards. Pulling never works.

Taking It From Home To The Street

Once you can do 10 to 20 steps indoors with a slack lead, move to the next level.

Stage 1: Driveway or courtyard

Do the same plan. Expect the dog to struggle at first because the smell and movement level is higher. Keep it short. If your dog locks onto a smell and leans into the lead, do not drag them away. Wait for slack, reward, then move.

Stage 2: Quiet street

Pick a time with low traffic and fewer dogs. Walk for 5 to 10 minutes. Reward often. If pulling starts, you are too close to the distraction or you stayed out too long.

Stage 3: Busier areas

Build distance. If your dog pulls toward people, dogs, or food smells, you are not failing. You are too close. Create space, reward calm check ins, and only move closer when the lead stays slack.

The mistake owners make is pushing the dog into a hard situation and hoping the harness will do the work. The harness is not the trainer. It is the safety system while you teach.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Pulling to sniff

Sniffing is normal. Use it as a reward instead of fighting it. Walk on a slack lead for a few steps, then release the dog to sniff with a simple “go sniff” cue. If the dog pulls to reach a smell, stop and wait for slack. Over time, they learn they get sniff time faster by not pulling.

Pulling from excitement at the door

Train the doorway like a skill. Harness on, wait for calm, open the door a crack, close it if the dog surges, then reward calm. You are teaching self control before the walk starts.

Lunging at dogs or people

This is not a loose lead problem. It is often a reactivity or over arousal problem. Create distance early, reward calm observation, and do not let greetings happen on a tight lead. If your dog is lunging regularly, get professional help. You will progress faster and safer.

You have a strong dog and you feel outmatched

Do not rely on strength. Use a safer setup, practise inside, and keep early outdoor sessions short. If safety is an issue, a head halter can be an option, but only if you condition the dog to it and learn correct handling. If you are unsure, get coaching.

Ethics And Welfare

The NSW direction is clear: painful tools are being pushed out because they compromise welfare. The best replacement is not a different punishment tool. It is a plan that teaches the dog what to do, makes success easier, and keeps stress lower.

Signs you are pushing too hard:

panting and scanning when it is not hot
refusing treats outside when your dog usually loves food
freezing, lunging, or exploding after “holding it together”
constant lead tension from the first minute of the walk

When you see these, reduce difficulty. Go back to home practice and rebuild.

When To Get Help

If your dog is reactive, fearful, or you are worried about being pulled over, professional support is the fastest route to safe progress. Puppy to Dog School offers in home training using positive reinforcement methods, so the plan fits your dog, your house layout, and your local walking routes. That matters because loose lead walking is as much about your timing and setup as it is about the dog.

Conclusion

FAQs

Are prong collars banned in NSW right now?

NSW has announced proposed reforms that include banning painful prong collars, with legislation expected to be introduced in the first half of 2026. Check current NSW Government updates before relying on old advice.

What harness is best for loose lead training?

For most pullers, a well fitted front clip harness is a strong starting point. A properly fitted Y harness can also work well for comfort and movement, especially if your dog does not surge hard.

How long will it take to teach loose lead walking?

Many dogs show improvement within 2 to 4 weeks with daily short sessions, but reliability around distractions takes longer. Progress depends on consistency and how often your dog practises pulling.

Should I use a head halter instead?

A head halter can help for safety with strong dogs, but it must be introduced slowly and used correctly. It is not a shortcut and it does not replace training.

What if my dog pulls and reacts at the same time?

Treat it as a behaviour and arousal issue, not just pulling. Increase distance from triggers, reward calm check ins, and get help from a positive reinforcement trainer if lunging is frequent.

Sources

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